Yuri Pardi

Monument collection

yuri-pardi

source: dezeen
Graduate shows 2015: garments appear to be carved from stone in University of East London graduate Yuri Pardi’s Minimalism-influenced fashion collection.

Pardi showed his Monument collection during UEL’s catwalk show on Sunday, as part of Graduate Fashion Week held at London’s Old Truman Brewery.

His grey wool garments are intended to extend parts of the body to create minimal, angular forms. The rigid volumes that protrude from the back of each outfit are created by foam sheets tucked into pockets underneath the clothing.

“I designed garments that morph from the shapes of the body into ‘pure’ geometrical shapes,” Pardi told Dezeen.

“I wanted to create a collection that could show that reduction and Minimalism are far from boring, and can be just as powerful as other visualities without being as loud,” he said.

The most dramatic example is a basic dress extended backward with bulky squarish blocks, which are reminiscent of the armoured fins of a Stegosaurus.

Worn over a long-sleeved top, the floor-length dress only has two seams that run from front to back down the edges of the blocks.

“The challenge was to identify, on the flat pattern cutting, the moment when the traditional lines of tailoring proceed into the shapes of a flattened polyhedron and still keep the seams to a minimum,” said Pardi.
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source: risekult
Garments appear to be carved from stone in University of East London graduate Yuri Pardi’s Minimalism-influenced fashion collection. Pardi showed his Monument collection during UEL’s catwalk show on Sunday, as part of Graduate Fashion Week held at London’s Old Truman Brewery. His grey wool garments are intended to extend parts of the body to create minimal, angular forms. The rigid volumes that protrude from the back of each outfit are created by foam sheets tucked into pockets underneath the clothing. “I designed garments that morph from the shapes of the body into ‘pure’ geometrical shapes,” Pardi said. I wanted to create a collection that could show that reduction and Minimalism are far from boring, and can be just as powerful as other visualities without being as loud”. The most dramatic example is a basic dress extended backward with bulky squarish blocks, which are reminiscent of the armoured fins of a Stegosaurus. Worn over a long-sleeved top, the floor-length dress only has two seams that run from front to back down the edges of the blocks. “The challenge was to identify, on the flat pattern cutting, the moment when the traditional lines of tailoring proceed into the shapes of a flattened polyhedron and still keep the seams to a minimum,” said Pardi. In another outfit, two rectangular protrusions – one from the shoulders and one from the hips – are worn over a dark dress with a straight silhouette. A similar outfit pairs a light-toned jacket and skirt, both with additions incorporated into the back that are not visible from the front. Menswear in the collection includes a top with a straight vertical fastening offset on the front, which has an element with a triangular profile protruding from its upper back. The garment also has sleeves that angle out at the elbow, highlighted with a darker shade. The top is paired with trousers where the lighter material frames a rectangle of dark fabric on the inner legs and around the crotch. This motif is replicated on a men’s jumpsuit that also features the same angular sleeves. Another wide-necked top has two volumes extended out from its back, separated by a triangular slice. Two rectangular flaps of dark fabric cover the front and back of the pair of trousers worn in combination. Influenced by the words of German artist Gerhard Richter, who said that grey “makes no statement whatever”, Pardi produced the entire collection using two shades of the same grey wool. “Making the whole collection in grey forces the eye to notice and find interest in the slight variations in light and shade that come with the shapes,” said Pardi. To create the garments, the Brazilian-born designer researched Minimalism across architecture, art and fashion, as well as Communist and religious uniforms, to trace common themes and reasons for the style. “This reinforced my stance that today Minimalism is not just a wonderful way of expression but, above all, a necessity,” Pardi said. “Undeniably, the world has become visually cluttered and the application of a Minimalist aesthetic could start a change of mindset towards reduction and simplification.”
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source: greytimes
את האפור של מעצב האופנה YURI PARDI היינו חייבות להציג כאן. יש משהו בעבודה שלו שעושה טוב לאפור.
הקולקציה שלו נקראת Monument והיא הוצגה בשבוע האופנה בלונדון בשנה שעברה ועדין מכה גלים.

יורי ידע שהוא מכין משהו יוצא דופן בתחום האופנה אבל הוא לא ציפה לזרם כל כך מאסיבי של תגובות. לשמחתו רוב התגובות היו מאוד מפרגנות וכללו גם פרסום בעיתונים וציוני שבח ממבינים באופנה, אך היו גם כאלה שלא היו כל כך נחמדים ונתנו ביקורת לא מחמיאה לקולקציה. “לא אכפת לי, זה די משעשע לראות פרשנויות שונות.” מספר לנו יורי.

השימוש בצמר אפור נועד להאריך את הגוף ולאפשר מראה מנימליסטי.
עיצוב כזה מכניס את הגוף לצורה גאומטרית טהורה, אומר יורי.
הבחירה בשני צבעים של אפור נובעת מהרצון לגרום לנו לראות כל שינוי הכי קטן של משחקי אור וצל הנובעים מצורות הבגד עצמו.

“רציתי ליצור קולקציה שמראה שהפחתה ומינימליות יכולה להיות גם אסטטית וגם מעניינת ולא משעממת.”
יורי מושפע מאוד מהשפה העיצובית המינימליסטית: “העולם מראה סימני עייפות וזה נובע עומס. עומס חזותי, עומס קולי עומס מידע ועוד. המעבר למינימליזם יכול להוות התחלה של תהליך ריפוי.”

הקולקציה מעוצבת בסגנון יוניסקס. לדעתו יוניסקס הוא המסלול הטבעי לעיצוב אופנה היום. החברה מתפתחת להיות יותר אחידה. מין, מוצא ועוד הבדלים בין אנשים, הופכים ללא רלוונטיים. האופנה צריכה להתפתח גם היא בכיוון זה. ברור שגורמים טכניים כמו הבדלים פיזיים ופרופורציות צריכים להילקח בחשבון אבל, יצירת סגנון יוניסקס מינימליסטי זה משהו שמקדם שוויון וקבלה. זה מאפשר להחזיר את הפוקס למהות האדם ולהתעסק פחות בצד הוויזואלי.
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source: futurefashionaltervistaorg
I capi sembrano scolpiti nella pietra, parti del corpo vengono estese per creare forme angolari. La collezione di Yuri Pardi “Monumento”, si basa sulla geometria e sull’anatomia; i volumi rigidi che sporgono dal retro di ogni abito sono creati da fogli di schiuma infilati nelle tasche sotto i vestiti. Blocchi di cemento scolpiti sul corpo: i pezzi sono stati realizzati con della lana grigia; il designer gioca con sporgenze e rigidi volumi. Questo processo ha permesso al progettista Pardi di ridurre il corpo a forme geometriche, che richiamano influenze artistiche dei proto-cubisti o dei futuristi italiani, e che indirettamente fanno riferimento ai monumenti moderni.Yuri Pardi: monumentale minimaliaLa geometria, solitamente è considerata come un campo di assoluta chiarezza, il luogo della razionalità, per Pardi diventa un modo per creare una razionalità irregolare. Blocchi squadrati come delle ‘Ziggurat’, questi capi sono architetture caratterizzate da due cuciture invisibili possibili grazie al taglio del modello; elementi a forma di rettangolo intorno alle spalle e alle anche, sostengono l’intera struttura tessile. Pardi per l’intera collezione, sceglie il grigio come tonalità, una sfumatura a cui si è ispirato in quanto neutra e poco appariscente, dimostrando che questo colore può invece forzare i nostri occhi – sottolineando il sovraccarico visivo costante a cui siamo sottoposti quotidianamente – e rimettere a fuoco dei dettagli con il potere di luci e ombre fino a ridurre l’estetica ad un minimalismo estremo.Yuri Pardi: monumentale minimaliaYuri Pardi: monumentale minimaliaQuesto progetto esplora lo scenario unico e contemporaneo in cui viviamo. Si sforza di esprimere al di fuori l’unità e il silenzio trovato all’interno, cercando di raggiungere tutto ciò che è primordiale, semplice, neutro, di attenuare la differenza e rafforzare la parità. Questa collezione è una celebrazione di questo momento, l’astrazione della transizione, un monumento al cambiamento, un’estetica filosofica e riflessiva; i capi sembrano scolpiti nella pietra, parti del corpo vengono estese per creare forme angolari.Yuri Pardi: monumentale minimaliaElementi triangolari, rettangolari, si formano sulla schiena; delle nuove combinazioni eversive. Per creare i capi, il designer di origini brasiliane ha ricercato il minimalismo attraverso l’architettura, l’arte e la moda, per tracciare i temi e le motivazioni dello stile comune. Le parole chiave sono: necessità di espressione, riducendo e semplificando.
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source: xoxothemagnet
Anıt adı verdiği koleksiyonunu yün kullanarak hazırladığını belirten Yuri, koleksiyonundaki her parçanın arkasına sert hacimli levhalar ekleyerek saf geometrik parçalar ile minimalizmin sıkıcılığını vurgulamış. Karşıdan baktığımızda günlük bir kıyafete, arkadan baktığımızda ise bir kaya parçasına benzeyen tasarım, anlatmak istediğini vücut ve geometrik şekillerin uyumu ile dile getiriyor. Koleksiyonunda kadın ve erkek parçaları bulunduran Pardi, kullandığı gri ve antrasit renkler ile koleksiyonunu güçlendirerek mesajının sektörde beton etkisi yaratmasını sağlamış.