source: dezeen

Orthopedic practices to correct body deformities influenced the leather straps and buckles in this fashion collection, presented by Marina Hoermanseder at Graduate Fashion Week earlier this week (+ slideshow).

Vegetable-tanned leather is double-sided and painted red on the reverse to create patterns where sections are flipped over.

“I became absolutely passionate about working with leather and manipulating it,” Hoermanseder told Dezeen. “I experimented a lot with moulding, twisting, buckling and strapping the leather around the body.”

Buckles secure twisted straps down the length of a perforated leather skirt and helmets worn after an accident informed the back of a visored hat.

A series of buckled bands form the sleeves of one top, which has a zip-up bodice and two wide shoulder panels clasped at the neck.

Straps are also fastened around the legs with metal studs, either over bare skin or white leggings.

In some cases the leather items are worn over ruffled tops in red, grey and white, designed to emulate skin maladies.
“The colourful silk ruffles were inspired by serious skin conditions such as smallpox and represent skin that is falling apart,” said Hoermanseder. “They provide a contrast to the stiff leather elements.”
Accessories include straps that fit around the head and cuffs that look like plaster casts, which can be attached to metal hooks at the breastbones of some tops.
“The accessories are my favourite,” the designer said. “Outside of the collection they work with casual clothes, adding a little fetish edge that’s still high fashion.”

Other garments are created by wrapping skin-coloured bandages around the body.

“My aim was to give women a spine, by giving them support and self-confidence in the world of fashion,” Hoermanseder concluded.
The collection formed part of the Esmod Berlin International University of Art for Fashion exhibition and show at Graduate Fashion Week 2013 in London earlier in the week.
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source: artportal
Marina Hoermanseder diplomakollekciója, az Ilpox, melyet a Londonban megrendezett Graduate Fashion Weeken mutatott be, hamar felkeltette az érdeklődését leginkább azoknak, akik már korábban is figyelték Zana Bayne, vagy akár Úna Burke munkásságát. Ők úgyanis azok, akik a bőrt elsősorban BDSM-kellékek, vagy ortopéd eszközök hatása alatt hajlítják, csatolják, fűzik. Marina legfontosabb inspirációja a 18. századi ortopédiai gyakorlatok és ezek kellékei, valamint egyes bőrbetegségek. Egész testet borító bőrszíjak, mellények, fűzők alkotják a kollekció gerincét, amik a deformált emberi test „helyreigazításához“ készültek – persze csak koncepcióként. Legszembetűnőbb elemekként a csatokat, bújtatott és csavart pántokat említhetjük, amiknek hatására egy nagyon izgalmas, textúrában és koncepcióban gazdag kollekció született. A kívül testszín, belül vörös bőrruhák mellett a kiegészítők (fej- és nyakpántok, csuklószorítók) is igen hangsúlyosak. A selyemből készült, vörös, szürke, türkiz és fehér felső- és alsórészek pedig a bőrön tapasztalható elváltozásokat, például himlőket jelképezik. Marina Hoermanseder fő célja “támaszt nyújtani és gerincet adni a nőknek” – szinte szó szerint.
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source: dominomagazin
Ortopetska pomagala su poslužila kao inspiracija za ove sulude radove. Marina Hoermanseder je tako od proteza napravila aksesoare za devojke. Ako to uopšte može da se tako nazove.
“Postala sam stvarno opsednuta kožom i njenom obradom”, kaže Marina.
Možda je uvrtela, zašrafila ili spojila više komada ko\e ali njeni radovi su ipak jezivi i izgledaju kao dodaci iz psihijatrijskog sanatorijuma ili ortopedske bolnice.
Grozno! Mada verujemo da ima neke umetničke vrednosti!
Marina inače dodaje da hoće da ženama pruži podršku u samopouzdanje u surovom svetu mode! E ako ovim ne uspe ne znamo čime hoće…
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source: mbfashionweek
Born and raised in Vienna, the young French-Austrian designer Marina Hoermanseder continues her way to establish herself in the international fashion scene. Her degree in international business in Vienna, her Master´s degree at Esmod Berlin and several additional courses at Central St. Martins College in London built a promising foundation for her career. After an internship at Alexander McQueen the look of her first collection in 2012 was not surprising. She takes part at the Salon de Cuir in Paris, at the Berlin-Dubai Fashion Festival of the Goethe Institute, the London Graduate Fashion Week and Portugal Fashion Week. After her first collection Marina Hoermanseder promises already one thing: Individuality. “I want to stir up the fashion industry with my creations but also earn respect as I pour my heart and soul into my work.” Bodies, extremities and prostheses are her inspiration. Vegetal tanned and hand-colored quality, volume generating buckles and an air of extravagance are all witness to innovative craftsmanship at the highest level. The bold and flashy appearance of the brand is underlined by passion for details. She describes herself as a handcrafter, who is sleepless until her pieces are finished. Here you clearly see the parallels to her role model Alexander McQueen. “He developed his first drafts during sleepless nights in a garage in East London. I often think about that when I am coloring thousand meters of leather edges in my kitchen.” Her dream to show her creations on the international runways and to see people in her designs does not seem too far away. Still at the beginning of her career she endorsed the singer Eve. Lady Gaga has already requested her pieces.
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source: mbfashionweek
Aufgewachsen in Wien verfolgt die junge französisch österreichische Designerin Marina Hoermanseder kontinuierlich das Ziel, sich in der internationalen Fashionszene durchzusetzen. Grundlage dafür bietet ihr Master in internationaler Betriebswirtschaft, den sie in Wien absolviert hat, ihr Mode-Design- Abschluss an der Esmod Berlin sowie weiterführende Kurse am Central St. Martins College in London. Ein Praktikum bei Alexander McQueen im Sommer 2012 versteht sich von selbst, wenn man ihre erste Kollektion betrachtet. Sie nimmt am Salon de Cuir in Paris, am Berlin-Dubai Fashion Festival des Goethe Instituts, der London Graduate Fashion Week und der Portugal Fashion Week teil. Bereits nach Veröffentlichung ihrer ersten Kollektion unter ihrem Labelnamen MARINA HOERMANSEDER verspricht das Label eines: Individualität. “Ich möchte mit meinen Kreationen einen Aufschrei in der Modewelt erreichen, ein Entsetzen, aber mir vor allem Respekt verschaffen. Mein gesamtes Herzblut steckt darin”, so die junge Designerin. Körper, Gliedmaßen und Prothesen inspirieren sie. Vegetabil gegerbtes und selbst gefärbtes Leder, volumenerzeugende Schnallen und ein Hang zur Extravaganz versprechen innovative Handarbeit auf höchstem Niveau. Das zugleich sehr laute und auffällige Auftreten der Marke wird von Liebe zum Detail untermalt. Sie bezeichnet sich selbst als Handwerkerin, die nicht schlafen gehen kann, bevor Ihre Modelle fertig sind. Hier findet sich eine Gemeinsamkeit mit ihrem Vorbild Alexander McQueen. „Seine ersten Entwürfe entstanden unter Schlaflosigkeit in einer Garage in East London. Daran denke ich oft, wenn ich nachts meterweise Lederkanten in meiner Küche einfärbe.“ Ihr Traum in drei Jahren auf den internationalen Catwalks unterwegs zu sein und Menschen in ihren Entwürfen zu sehen, scheint nicht allzu fern. Ganz am Anfang Ihrer Karriere stattet sie bereits Stars wie die Sängerin Eve aus. Eine Bestellung von Lady Gaga liegt bereits vor.
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source: inspirationist
Marina Hoermanseder developed her art throughout her time at Esmod Berlin International University of Art and mastered her handcraft at Alexander McQueen. „I go wherever my creativity takes me“ says Austrian fashion designer Marina Hoermanseder. For her diploma collection she therefore did not hesitate to use discomforting inspirations such as orthopaedic devices and serious skin conditions. Vegetable-tanned leather is double-sided and painted red on the reverse to create patterns where sections are flipped over. „From whatever disorder people are suffering, I think fashion can serve as a medicine and shelter, giving support and self confidence. So the original use of the corset as an orthopedic vest became the starting point for this collection. At some point I found myself on a journey to find a cure!” So her first collection reflects her inspirational playground of sculpturing leather by moulding it to the body, twisting buckles, leather straps creating volume, a fabric made out of medical bandages and all over ruffled silk. By adding accessories such as leather headpieces and armcuffs, she balances a striking inspiration to a high level of contemporary fashion.
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source: parqmag
A jovem desig­ner Marina Hoermanseder apre­sen­tou no des­file final do seu curso de moda na Esmod Berlin International University of Art for Fashion um pro­jecto que se base­ava em peças orto­pé­di­cas cri­a­das para cor­ri­gir defor­mi­da­des. A jovem artista diz que sem­pre se sen­tiu atrida por peças de couro o que a tem levado a explo­rar esse mate­rial. As peças tem mui­tas five­las e os intri­o­res são sem­pre ver­me­lhos, às vezes rever­ti­dos, dando um efeito bizarro de colete de força.
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source: verbo10
Después de licenciarse en Ciencias Económicas tomó aire, hizo sus maletas y dejó atrás su Viena natal para estudiar diseño de moda en la Esmod Berlin International University of Art. Mientras trabajaba para Alexander McQueen daba las primeras puntadas a ILPOX, su primera colección. La austriaca Marina Hoermanseder dio un paso importante en su carrera y uno necesario para el mundo de la moda de hoy en día.
-Todo comenzó en mi época en Alexander McQueen, buscaba corsets y todo lo relacionado a estas prendas porque me había gustado como Alexander McQueen logró realzar las formas femeninas. En esta búsqueda terminé encontrando el primer corset ortopédico de la historia, una pieza del siglo XVIII, lo use como punto de partida para mi colección. Por supuesto la investigación siguió su curso y en un punto me ví a mi misma leyendo literatura medica, me enteré que el corset que había encontrado trataba enfermedades como la órtesis y debo admitir que las fotos no solo me impactaron, también me sedujeron. Afortunadamente mi historial medico es muy corto, solo algunas fracturas de una juventud demasiado “deportiva”, recuerdo que entonces me aterraban los hospitales. Quizás esta hacer esta colección fue una especie de terapia para hacer las paces con los médicos.
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source: mithandkuss
Wer in den vergangenen Tagen bei Trendhunter, Co.Design oder anderen Fashion-Plattformen vorbei geschaut hat, ist an dem österreichischen Nachwuchstalent marina hoermanseder nicht vorbei gekommen. Mit ihrer Diplomkollektion „ilpox“ wurde sie nicht nur mit der „Die Goldenen Nadel“ ausgezeichnet und brillierte auf der London-Graduation-Show, sondern wird bereits jetzt von der nationalen und internationalen Presse als aufstrebende Designerin gefeiert.
Rapperin Eve ist von der Kollektion, die eine Gradwanderung zwischen Fetisch, High Fashion und Verspieltheit darstellt, begeistert. So lies sich die amerikanische „Who´s That Girl“-Sänger bereits in Hoermanseders Designs ablichten. Doch damit nicht genug: Sogar die italienische Vogue hat bereits bei ihr angeklopft und präsentiert in der Herbstausgabe mehrere Kollektionsteile.
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source: marina-hoermanseder
“I go wherever my creativity takes me“ says Franco-Austrian fashion designer Marina Hoermanseder. For her diploma collection she therefore did not hesitate to use discomforting inspirations such as orthopaedic devices and serious skin conditions.
„From whatever disorder people are sufferig, I think fashion can serve as a medicine and shelter, giving support and self confidence. So the original use of the corset as an orthopedic vest became the starting point for this collection. At some point I found myself on a journey to find a cure!”
So her first collection reflects her inspirational playground of sculpturing leather by moulding it to the body, twisting buckles, leather straps creating volume, a fabric made out of medical bandages and all over ruffled silk.
This fashion statement comes along with a high level of quality and handcraft. A lot of the pieces are fully studded by hand and profoundly processed. The vegetably tanned leather is hand painted and one dress consists out of more than 100 meters auf silk strips.
By adding accessories such as leather headpieces and armcuffs, she balances a striking inspiration to a high level of contemporary fashion.
Marina Hoermanseder developed her art throughout her time
at Esmod Berlin International University of Art and
mastered her handcraft at Alexander McQueen.