MIT Media Lab, Stanford University
This work explores a dynamic future where the accessories we wear are no longer static, but are instead mobile, living objects on the body. Engineered with the functionality of 18 robotics, this “living” jewelry roams on unmodified clothing, changing location and reconfiguring appearance according to social context and enabling multitude presentations of self. With the addition of sensor devices, they transition into active devices which can react to environmental conditions. They can also be paired with existing mobile devices to become personalized on-body assistants to help complete tasks. Attached to garments, they generate shape-changing clothing and kinetic pattern designs–creating a new, dynamic fashion.
It is our vision that in the future, these robots will be miniaturized to the extent that they can be seamlessly integrated into existing practices of body ornamentation. With the addition of kinetic capabilities, traditionally static jewelry and accessories will start displaying life-like qualities, learning, shifting, and reconfiguring to the needs and preferences of the wearer, also assisting in fluid presentation of self. We envision a new class of future wearables that possess hybrid qualities of the living and the crafted, creating a new on-body ecology for human-wearable symbiosis.

DIMENSION
Mamoru Hosoda collaborated with Morinaga to create this great collection film. It begins with the formation of the clothes as Morinaga designed them, not through cut and drape but via cut and paste, and we see the garments as digital toiles made up of fractal contours true to the representation of futuristic facades stretching back to Metropolis and Tron. Then the dresses form more tangibly, but still in 2D, filling those vectored spaces with the angled jigsaw of reclaimed denim, chino cotton, and gabardine, plus reflective material (all seamlessly bonded) from which they are made. It slowly becomes kind of clear that we are seeing a fashion show in U, the virtual world which Belle’s heroine inhabits—and that it is also being streamed on U’s equivalent of YouTube. There are rooms within rooms within rooms.

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仮想世界は二次元。非日常の世界。現実世界は三次元。日常の世界。仮想とは、現実にはない世界を仮にあるものとして考えてみること。現実とは、事実として目の前にあらわれている世界そのもの。2022年春夏コレクション「DIMENSION」は二次元と三次元を越境する。画面の中の世界は二次元。細田守監督最新作「竜とそばかすの姫」のアニメーションの世界。劇中に存在する仮想空間’’Ｕ’’でコレクションが幕を開ける。CGアバターモデルが、宙に浮くガラスのランウェイを歩く。画面の外の世界は現実。‘’U’’が投影された真っ白な空間を、実在のモデルが歩く。コロナ禍がもたらしたデジタルのファッションショーは、軽々と世界の距離を縮め、すべてをフラットにした。画面の中では、立体と平面の区別はなくフラット。画面の中と外の境界もまた、消えていく。画面の外で纏うだけでなく、画面の中でも纏うことができる。

I frequently entertain the idea that everything we perceive might actually not be real at all, that the world around me could actually just be my senses lying to me. The idea that “reality is a hoax” completely freaks me out, so naturally it became the concrete starting point for my collection. From this, I began to develop different ways of “imagining” garments, of finding ways of putting things that are not really there into existence. I wanted to blur the lines of real versus imagined//artificial. Print was the best facilitator of this goal.

Mens SS 2020
“After the scene shifted from a selection of 2D garments, removed to reveal Browne’s brilliant designs below, the show began in earnest. The looks, as gleefully playful as ever, took on elements of Browne’s typical offerings and elevated them to the level of supreme costume design. Several imposing silhouettes recalled dresses worn by Antoinette-era aristocracy, with gargantuan trousers and shapely sportcoats crafted to resemble distorted Ivy League staples. Elsewhere, pleated skirts emerged as a prime trouser replacement, with cropped jackets and seersucker jockstraps to introduce a sporty motif.” Jake Silbert

The Wild Swans

The project is the creation of a series of kinetic garments that tell the story of “The Wild Swans” by Hans Christian Anderson. In the fairy tale, 11 princes have been turned into swans from a transformative spell cast by their wicked stepmother. Their sister, the princess, rescues the princes by collecting stinging nettles and knitting them, under a vow of silence and in great pain, into magical shirts so that her brothers can return to their human shape. She is very nearly done knitting them all when she runs out of time; she throws the sweaters onto her brothers to transform them, but the last one is incomplete, leaving her youngest brother forever with a swan’s wing instead of an arm.

Huddlewear
For this exhibition, Huddlewear becomes a tool for activating exchanges in relationships between individuals, groups and communities. The exhibition invites and encourages visitors to wear and inhabit Huddlewear and to explore the intimacy and complexities of connection in real time. The interconnected designs of the garments can be worn by pairs and groups and aim to explore the wearer’s sense of self and vulnerability during moments of interaction and gathering. By inviting participation and reflection the ‘Huddle tests’ exhibition will involve a series of events and activities as well as an open invite for ‘group work’ for the duration of the exhibition.

フセイン·チャラヤン
ЧАЛАЯН
후세인 샬 라얀
Gravity Fatigue
Fashion designer Hussein Chalayan has created elasticated costumes and sequinned garments for performers in his first self-directed dance production (+ slideshow).The production is split into 18 chapters that each explore themes of identity, displacement and invisibility.

ZIL

“DEVELOP A NEGATIVE INTO A POSITIVE PICTURE”

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Phygital way of designing that captures a momentum of transition between digital and physical worlds.
Digital and sustainable fashion with respect to materiality propose no-waste patterning that uses the technique of cut-ups to be assembled into a garment. Inspiration comes from the process of deconstructing historical garments and unexpected assemblage.

Articulated 3D-Printed Gown
Michael Schmidt and Francis Bitonti revealed their fully 3d printed gown modeled by Dita Von Teese.
The fully articulated gown based on the Fibonacci sequence was designed by Michael Schmidt and 3D modeled by architect Francis Bitonti to be 3D printed in Nylon by Shapeways. The gown was assembled from 17 pieces, dyed black, lacquered and adorned with over 13,000 Swarovski crystals to create a sensual flowing form.Thousands of unique components were 3D printed in a flowing mesh designed exactly to fit Ditta’s body. This represents the possibility to 3D print complex, customized fabric like garments designed exactly to meet a specific person or need.

Roots of rebirth
During such rarefied times, the designer explores a symbiosis of high technology and the artisanal craftsmanship of couture, through a collection that references the intricacy of fungi and the entanglement of life that breathes beneath our feet. Through ‘Roots of Rebirth’, Van Herpen notions towards the miraculous lacery of interconnectedness from the natural ‘wood wide web,’ weaving a dialogue between the terrestrial and the underworld. ‘Roots of Rebirth’ extends its own branch, an invitation to a sequence of 21 looks inspired by roots and spores. During the show, the models seem to magnetise a living lace of spores with each stride, the entanglement of each garment resembles roots of regeneration.

LASERSPINE
A garment with lasers that project perpendicular to, and down the length of the spine. The complex technology in this interface is the body. Though it is not always evident, the range of movement of the spine is remarkable. Magnifying and making visible the relative position and dynamic tilt of the spine is sufficient to bring attention in an intense and unique way to this part of the body. That the wearer of the garment cannot see the lights projecting from their back serves to intensify this focus. The whole seems to enhance the poetic valence of movement of the entire torso, with the spinal column demarcated as the experiential, physical and energetic core.

베가 왕
维加王
ВЕГА ВАН
ALPHA LYREA
Beijing-based fashion designer Vega Zaishi Wang’s new Alpha Lyrae collection is very special. Silk dresses of her design were printed with galaxies, constellations, and nebulas, then backed with lightweight and flexible electroluminescent paper, making the garments glow. The name of the collection is quite clever: not only does it reference the space theme of the design, but Alpha Lyrae is the name of the brightest star in the constellation of Vega, which is also the designer’s first name.

Graduate Fashion Week 2018

“One of the boldest statement pieces of the week, even more so than the fluorescent collections! Neyazi’s huge puffy fat suit resembling garment was incredibly unusual. The ballooning dress took on a very unique silhouette.The models were send down the runway wearing headpieces which matched the round bunched bottom shaped dress. The brown, beige and burnt orange colour pallet evoked a bonfire and the huge blown up dresses adhere to a fire form.” Chloe Alexandra Lawrence

Skorpions
LUTTERGILL
Skorpions are a set of kinetic electronic garments that move and change on the body in slow, organic motions.They breathe and pulse, controlled by their own internal programming. They are not “interactive” artifacts insofar as their programming does not respond to simplistic sensor data. They have intentionality; they are programmed to live, to exist, to subsist. They are living behavioral kinetic sculptures that exploit characteristics such as control, anticipation and unpredictability. They have their own personalities, their own fears and desires.

beGrounded
beGrounded is a project that explores the relationship between humans and other living organisms, as an emotional and artistic act through textiles. It proposes an exploration of a new habitable space in the form of a woven garment with growing sprouts, as a sensorial and interactive experience.

Appearing like ghostly cages which seem to float above the body, Seiran Tsuno’s designs are delicately abstract, distorting and disrupting the human-form. Emphasising the shoulders, chest, and thighs, there is a subtlety to her pieces: they don’t scream and shout but instead sit quietly in their uniqueness […] Creating a base is the first step, which Tsuno then draws on using the 3D pens. As it becomes airborne, the strands of melted plastic ink solidify, before Tsuno removes the base. The result is a piece that has the delicacy of fine jewellery, only in garment form.

Moncler’s Genius 2020 Collection
The british fashion designer reinterpreted the brand’s iconic expression as a series of monochrome designs resembling padded samurai armour and brightly colored inflatables[…] Injecting flat sheets with down quilting, Craig Green uses a series of zips that allow the body to inhabit the garments and give them volume. Further defined by outlines printed on the outside, each piece is clad in ripstop nylon, a light-weight nylon fabric with interwoven ripstop reinforcement threads in a crosshatch pattern.

Matic Veler is ispired by researching his aesthetic development since upbringing up until now. One of the biggest inspiration, architecture of 17th and 18th century architecture, especially details and ornaments together with impression of magical environments combined with brutalism architecture he was surrounded in when he was child, help him to translate and reflect when creating garments and installations to impress viewers and customers. ​He uses Baroque architecture details and ornaments as his inspiration. Always starting with collecting different photos of details and studying different architects. 
Matic manipulates the ornaments into collages on which he draw sketches and then making toiles on mannequins.

Flowing water, Standing time
Montreal-based fashion designer, ying gao, designed robotic clothing out of silicone, glass and organza, and added electronic devices to create every-changing dynamic pieces that react to its surrounding chromatic spectrum. the collection, entitled ‘flowing water, standing time’ captures the essence of movement and stability over a period of time, and how different energies flowing through the garment, mirroring the colors in its immediate surroundings.

吉冈德仁
吉岡徳仁
transparent mannequins
Considered ‘grid bodies’, or the ‘transparent body installation’ yoshioka has specially conceived these figures to highlight issey miyake’s garments. in room A, one finds the 1970s collections of miyake dressing figures composed out of 365 laser cut cardboard parts, arranged as a grid structure to create a futuristic human body. they are adorned by pieces that investigate miyake’s constant innovation in fabric-making, and his deep respect for tradition.

APPARITION
Materiality and process are central to Rebecca Ward’s practice and evoke “architectural garments” ripped, unwoven, and re-stitched from fleshtoned canvas duck, leather hide, and silk organza. In her canvas works, the artist removes the weft (horizontal) threads of the fabric to reveal the underlying stretcher bars, highlighting the physical structure of the painting itself. Ward’s artworks reveal and obscure, and by their nature, entice viewers to closely investigate contrasts in line and material, modulations in color, and multi-dimensional layers.

London born designer Richard Quinn established his eponymous label in 2016, upon graduating the Fashion MA at Central Saint Martins. Specialising in womenswear and textiles, his collections are bold and emotive creating a forward thinking unafraid vision. Richard creates garments with attention to innovative fabrications, focusing on his ability to combine unique handcrafted skill, with a refined high fashion sensibility.

Haute Couture Busts
Every fashion designer and fashion student has worked with dress forms. Dressing and draping on them while working on their future garments, before they get to fitting on a model. One of the most famous and historical brands for these dress forms is Stockman, and a lot of fashion lovers collect them and use them as decoration in their homes. Taking the fashion dress form as a piece of art, French art director Emmanuel Bossuet of EEM Agency collaborated with Stockman to produce limited edition “haute couture” busts. Limited to 10 copies of each model, the original 3 are currently on exhibit at the department store Bon Marche in Paris.

Insides Evening Cape
Hannah Soukup brings a multidimensional approach to apparel design by combining traditional and unconventional techniques using innovative materials and technologies to transform ideas into provocative, and intriguing wearable experiences. She is a futuristic thinker and passionate ideator with her process deeply rooted in material research and experimentation, evolving ideas through draping and sculpting on the body to bring to life intimate interactions with the garments and realities.

克雷格·格林
크레이그 그린
קרייג גרין
クレイグ・グリーン
Крейг Грин
Exploring concepts of uniform and utility, Green’s cult-like runway processions have become a highly anticipated fixture of the menswear calendar. Though known for their dramatic and deeply emotive qualities, his collections are firmly rooted in the steady development of simple, yet rigorously considered signature garments such as the Worker Jacket.more…

Matija wanted to create garments that drew upon historical types without relying on traditional techniques of construction. He consciously abstained from knitting, sewing, or adhesion to develop an experimental system of fabrication: 3D scans of the body are manipulated using modelling software, transposed into 2D laser-cut patterns, and then rationalised through scripts into shapes that can be interlocked like puzzle pieces. The resultant object is a complex polyhedron without any seams. More significantly, the process that creates it is an entirely original variation of weaving with unlimited possibilities for novel design and new construction. Manually interlocking hundreds of unique laser-cut pieces with techno-couture craftsmanship, he makes ambitious and integrated thought tangible. Matija’s work aestheticises curiosity by striving constantly to authenticate the possibility of genuine innovation in contemporary fashion.

Intimacy Dress

INTIMACY is a high-tech fashion project exploring the relation between intimacy and technology. Its high-tech garments entitled ‘Intimacy White’ and ‘Intimacy Black’ are made out of opaque smart e-foils that become increasingly transparent based on close and personal encounters with people. Social interactions determine the garmentsʼ level of transparency, creating a sensual play of disclosure.