highlike

Andrea Ling

the girl in the wood frock
This project is based on a fairy tale in which a girl’s life is changed by what she wears. It is through clothing that the heroine experiences the outside world and the wood dress is both armor and prison for the girl, allowing her to escape the threat of incest while also disguising her true self from the prince.
Each dress in the series is an exercise in controlling one’s most immediate environment and how one navigates such an intimate spatial situation, using covers to filter what we feel by either exaggerating or muting sensation. They are also explorations of material technique and are made using a combination of high and low-tech methods and industrial materials such as printing press felt, rubber, and copper cable. The dresses are built rather than sewn and architectural construction informs their detailing.

KUNIHIKO MORINAGA AND MAMORU HOSODA

DIMENSION
Mamoru Hosoda collaborated with Morinaga to create this great collection film. It begins with the formation of the clothes as Morinaga designed them, not through cut and drape but via cut and paste, and we see the garments as digital toiles made up of fractal contours true to the representation of futuristic facades stretching back to Metropolis and Tron. Then the dresses form more tangibly, but still in 2D, filling those vectored spaces with the angled jigsaw of reclaimed denim, chino cotton, and gabardine, plus reflective material (all seamlessly bonded) from which they are made. It slowly becomes kind of clear that we are seeing a fashion show in U, the virtual world which Belle’s heroine inhabits—and that it is also being streamed on U’s equivalent of YouTube. There are rooms within rooms within rooms.

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仮想世界は二次元。非日常の世界。現実世界は三次元。日常の世界。仮想とは、現実にはない世界を仮にあるものとして考えてみること。現実とは、事実として目の前にあらわれている世界そのもの。2022年春夏コレクション「DIMENSION」は二次元と三次元を越境する。画面の中の世界は二次元。細田守監督最新作「竜とそばかすの姫」のアニメーションの世界。劇中に存在する仮想空間’’U’’でコレクションが幕を開ける。CGアバターモデルが、宙に浮くガラスのランウェイを歩く。画面の外の世界は現実。‘’U’’が投影された真っ白な空間を、実在のモデルが歩く。コロナ禍がもたらしたデジタルのファッションショーは、軽々と世界の距離を縮め、すべてをフラットにした。画面の中では、立体と平面の区別はなくフラット。画面の中と外の境界もまた、消えていく。画面の外で纏うだけでなく、画面の中でも纏うことができる。

A Writer’s Odyssey

A Writer’s Odyssey

Seis anos após o sequestro de sua filha, um homem é contratado para matar o autor de um romance de fantasia, mas o mundo do romance parece se cruzar com a realidade. No romance, Redmane é o governante de uma aldeia que ele comanda com punho de ferro. Um jovem herói está em uma missão para acabar com o governo de Redmane. De alguma forma, o romance parece estar impactando a vida no mundo real e, portanto, a corporação quer impedir o autor de continuar seu trabalho.

JENNIFER RUBELL

جنيفر روبل
제니퍼 루벨
ジェニファールベル
Portrait of the Artist

Jennifer Rubell, the American artist and niece of Studio 54 co-founder Steve Rubell, brings a maternal touch to this year’s Frieze Art Fair with her autobiographical piece Portrait of the Artist. The pristine white nude, cast from steel-reinforced fibreglass, reclines like an odalisque at the Stephen Friedman Gallery stand. The sculpture is a replica of Rubell’s own eight-months-pregnant body, except it is eight metres high: the large belly, which is carved out to leave an egg-shaped void, can accommodate a fully grown adult. Spectators are able to clamber into the artwork and curl up inside as if they are the artist’s unborn child.Rubell’s intention was to create a monumental gesture of unconditional motherly love. There is a feminist statement here, too: Rubell has appropriated a style and scale historically reserved for male leaders to show, she says, “an emotion that is intensely personal and un-heroic”. The artist adds that watching members of the Frieze audience enter in the sculpture’s womb is “tremendously satisfying” – in her eyes the enlarged form was “incomplete until the first viewer entered”. Amid the hustle of Frieze’s mini-city there is something undeniably appealing about the opportunity to put your feet up in the foetal position in the name of art. Not to mention the comfort factor.