DIMENSION
Mamoru Hosoda collaborated with Morinaga to create this great collection film. It begins with the formation of the clothes as Morinaga designed them, not through cut and drape but via cut and paste, and we see the garments as digital toiles made up of fractal contours true to the representation of futuristic facades stretching back to Metropolis and Tron. Then the dresses form more tangibly, but still in 2D, filling those vectored spaces with the angled jigsaw of reclaimed denim, chino cotton, and gabardine, plus reflective material (all seamlessly bonded) from which they are made. It slowly becomes kind of clear that we are seeing a fashion show in U, the virtual world which Belle’s heroine inhabits—and that it is also being streamed on U’s equivalent of YouTube. There are rooms within rooms within rooms.

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仮想世界は二次元。非日常の世界。現実世界は三次元。日常の世界。仮想とは、現実にはない世界を仮にあるものとして考えてみること。現実とは、事実として目の前にあらわれている世界そのもの。2022年春夏コレクション「DIMENSION」は二次元と三次元を越境する。画面の中の世界は二次元。細田守監督最新作「竜とそばかすの姫」のアニメーションの世界。劇中に存在する仮想空間’’Ｕ’’でコレクションが幕を開ける。CGアバターモデルが、宙に浮くガラスのランウェイを歩く。画面の外の世界は現実。‘’U’’が投影された真っ白な空間を、実在のモデルが歩く。コロナ禍がもたらしたデジタルのファッションショーは、軽々と世界の距離を縮め、すべてをフラットにした。画面の中では、立体と平面の区別はなくフラット。画面の中と外の境界もまた、消えていく。画面の外で纏うだけでなく、画面の中でも纏うことができる。

لارس فون ترير
拉斯·冯·特里尔
라스 폰 트리에
לארס פון טרייר
ラース·フォン·トリアー
Ларс фон Триер
melancholia
Truth be told, the best thing about Melancholia is its title. In an era where pop therapy abounds, true melancholy and its affinity to beauty needs to be rehabilitated—and of course differentiated from the more banal categories of “mental illness” and “depression.” In a pivotal phase of German Romanticism exemplified by Novalis’ poetry, the quintessentially melancholy category of “longing” is linked with a quest for the “unattainable.” Yet there’s also a tangibly utopian element to Novalis’ melancholy, personified by his dictum, “All representation rests on making present that which is not present.” Or as Max Blechman puts it in his essay “The Revolutionary Dream of Early German Romanticism, the Romantics pantheistic faith points to how art and religion are fundamentally one and the same activity. For is not art the desire to see the real in the ideal, to enliven the ideal behind the real, to transform unconscious idealism into conscious idealism—and is this not done through faith in the ideal?”

On Shame
FILE BELO HORIZONTE 2018-DISRUPTIVA
foto: Luiza Ananias
On Shame is part of the series Psychosomatics which was initiated in 2010. In these works Franco makes it possible to tangibly experience such emotions as joy, fear, confusion, happiness or shame by means of digital technologies. Cameras and motion and tactile sensors serve as tools to facilitate the dialogue between humans and machines. more…