Iris van Herpen

Syntopia

Iris van Herpen Syntopia

source:irisvanherpencom
Iris van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer who is widely recognized as one of fashion’s most talented and forward-thinking creators who continuously pushes the boundaries of fashion design. Since her first show in 2007 van Herpen has been preoccupied with inventing new forms and methods of sartorial expression by combining the most traditional and the most radical materials and garment construction methods into her unique aesthetic vision.

Van Herpen is often hailed as a pioneer in utilizing 3D printing as a garment construction technique, and as an innovator who is comfortable with using technology as one of the guiding principles in her work because of its sculptural nature and unfamiliar form. The designer’s intent is to blend the past and the future into a distinct version of the present by fusing technology and traditional Couture craftsmanship.

Her singular vision combined with the complexity of her creations has made van Herpen a fixture on the Paris Haute Couture calendar, where she has shown since January 2011.

Van Herpen’s work has been featured in various museum exhibitions, including a major retrospective that is touring the United States since 2015, beginning with a six-month long run at the High Museum of Art in Atlanta. Six of her dresses were acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and seven of her works were exhibited in its highly successful 2016 “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” show. In addition to the above, van Herpen’s creations have been exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and the Cooper Hewitt museum in New York, and the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, among others.

Three solo books have been published on the designer’s work. “Iris van Herpen” by the Groninger Museum to accompany her first solo exhibit, “Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion” by the High Museum of Art to accompany the United States museum tour, and most recently “Iris van Herpen Backstage”. Van Herpen has received numerous awards since 2009. These include the Johannes Vermeer Award, state prize for the arts (2017), the ANDAM Grand Prix Award (2014) and the Grand Prize of the European commission – STARTS (2016).

Van Herpen’s distinct aesthetic viewpoint made her dress many progressive musicians and actresses such as Björk, for whose video’s and tours van Herpen has created several dresses, Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton, Cara Delvingne, Daphne Guinness, Miley Cyrus, Gwendoline Christie, Fan Bing Bing, Lady Gaga, Naomi Campbell, Solange Knowles, Natalia Vodianova and Grimes. Her special projects included dressing the actress Scarlett Johannson in the film “Lucy” and dressing Beyoncé for her “Mine” video. As a former ballet practicer herself, van Herpen also created costumes for the Paris Opera and the New York City Ballet, collaborating with the choreographer Benjamin Millepied and the Sasha Waltz dance company in Berlin.

Because of van Herpen’s interest in multidisciplinary approach to creation that goes beyond fashion, she has often collaborated with various artists such as Jolan van der Wiel and Neri Oxman and architects such as Philip Beesley and Benthem and Crouwel Architects. The designer’s interest in science and technology has led to ongoing conversations with CERN (The European Organization for Nuclear Research) and MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology).

Today, van Herpen continues to work within her Amsterdam studio, where new ideas are born, and where Haute Couture orders are meticulously crafted for her global clientele, each creation passing through the designer’s own hands.
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source:irisvanherpencom
SYNTOPIA – July 2018 at Paris Fashion Week
Iris van Herpen presented her Haute Couture collection, ʻSyntopiaʼ, on July 2nd, 2018 at Le Trianon in Paris.

In this collection the designer explores the new worlds that arise within synthetic biology and the intertwining relationships between the organic and the inorganic. ʻSyntopiaʼ acknowledges the current scientific shift in which biology converges with technology and visualizes the fragility and power within.

For Syntopia, Van Herpen collaborates with the artists Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta of Studio Drift, whose biomimic art works translate natural processes by breathing life into delicate immersive sculptures through movement. For this show Studio Drift has created a spatial kinetic installation ʻIn 20 stepsʼ constructed of 20 delicate glass wings that represent all the different steps of flying in an abstract way. The vivacious glass bird flows in symbiosis with the models while they move over the runway, their delicate interaction emphasizes the fragility of new worlds living and soaring together.

‘As a former dancer, the transformation within movement has hypnotized me. For this collection I looked closely at the minutiae of bird flight and the intricate echoing forms within avian motion. The artists Studio Drift and the scientist Etienne Jules Marey inspired me to look more closely at the draping of a garment through chronophotography. By slowing down time into split seconds I started breaking down the usual draping of fabric, to then layer the milli-seconds all slightly shifted, like the layering of a bird’s feather.’ says van Herpen.

The collection begins with one of the oldest artisanal techniques – weaving. Here, traditional weaving and cutting-edge, digitally designed weaving intertwine to create a series of ʻSyntopicʼ coats and dresses in laser-cut wool that are woven with leather through parametric file making to literally cut into time. Transparent silk organza is pleated and liquid-coated, their transparent folds continually overlap in different directions to slow down movement, resembling the glass lines of the showʼs kinetic installation. The ‘Inside a secondʼ technique translates the artistry of Studio Drift and the chronophotographic lines of birdflight into thousands of two-toned transparent organza layers that are lasercut and heatbonded with mylar and cotton, that drape like time-lapse motion. The mini ʻMimesisʼ corset dresses are made from birdʼs soundwave patterns that are lasercut of mylar, black cotton, red organza and transparent black acrylic sheets, layering the silk and acrylic like a featherʼs architecture.
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source:fashionunitedfr
Le 2 juillet 2018, c’est au Trianon à Paris que la styliste néerlandaise, Iris Van Herpen a dévoilé sa collection Haute Couture baptisée «Syntopia».

Dans cette collection, la créatrice explore les nouveaux mondes qui émergent de la biologie synthétique et les relations entrelacées entre l’organique et l’inorganique. “Syntopia” met en avant le changement scientifique actuel dans lequel la biologie converge avec la technologie et visualise la fragilité et la puissance à l’intérieur.

Pour “Syntopia”, Iris Van Herpen a collaboré avec les artistes Lonneke Gordijn et Ralph Nauta de Studio Drift. Pour ce spectacle, Studio Drift a créé une installation cinétique spatiale «en 18 étapes» composée de 18 ailes en verre délicates qui représentent toutes les différentes étapes du vol d’une manière abstraite. L’oiseau de verre vivace coule en symbiose avec les modèles pendant qu’ils se déplacent sur la piste, leur interaction délicate souligne la fragilité des nouveaux mondes vivant et planant ensemble.

Onze ans de carrière
«En tant qu’ancienne danseuse, la transformation dans le mouvement m’a hypnotisée. Pour cette collection, j’ai regardé de près les minuties du vol des oiseaux et les formes complexes de l’écho dans le mouvement aviaire. Les artistes Studio Drift et le scientifique Etienne Jules Marey m’ont inspiré pour regarder de plus près le drapage d’un vêtement à travers la chronophotographie. En ralentissant le temps en une fraction de seconde, j’ai commencé à défaire le drapage habituel du tissu, puis à superposer les milisecondes toutes légèrement décalées, comme la superposition d’une plume d’oiseau” confie la styliste dans un communiqué.

FashionUnited vous propose de découvrir, dans la chronologie ci-dessous, le parcours de la styliste. Utilisez les flèches pour naviguer parmi les événements classés par date ou cliquez sur une période (dans la barre grise) pour en savoir plus.