Валеску Джассо Колладо

Westminster graduate collection

source: artfuture-schoolru

Жители Петербурга должны хорошо помнить выставку итальянской группы Memphis из 1980-х, которая прошла несколько лет назад в Галерее дизайна/bulthaup. Некоторые образцы этой мебели находятся там до сих пор. Объекты Memphis, сделанные на грани искусства и дизайна, впечатлили и Валеску Джассо Колладо (Valeska Jasso Collado) для разработки коллекции одежды в качестве дипломной работы в Вестминстерском университете. Основными материалами стали латекс и поролон. Конечно, сложно представить человека в таком костюме, прогуливающегося по улице в жаркий день, но с точки зрения поиска форм, цвета, сочетания текстур, проект заслуживает особого внимания.
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source: fashiongabberblogspot

作品深受80年代意大利Memphis風格家具影響，結合橡膠，泡沫，金屬，創作出一系列極具童趣而硬朗的作品。

橡膠布料和PVC本身已經容易塑造立體造型，設計師運用乾脆利落的剪裁，創造出誇張的幾何線條。在服裝的製作上幾乎看不到車縫位，反而用金屬螺絲來固定。

在穿法上也改變了傳統方式，雖然不算具備實穿性，但本身Memphis的出現，就是要改變當時單調的實用主義風格。

在布料正反面亦運用兩種顔色，當布料被扭轉而呈現出底色，令色彩在視覺上不顯得單調。
整個系列把Memphis家具設計轉變成時裝，雖然所有items都比正常服裝大上幾倍，但設計師無論在廓型和顔色上都非常協調，大膽的實驗性作品中卻流露出童話的夢幻感。
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source: socialista

H σχεδιάστρια μόδας Valeska Jasso Collado συνδύασε το μέταλλο, τον αφρό και το λατέξ και δημιούργησε τα περίφημα ”ρούχα – έπιπλα” για το Πανεπιστήμιο του Westminster.

Η Valeska Jasso Collado επέλεξε ένα ασυνήθιστο συνδυασμό των υλικών για τη δημιουργία τολμηρών σχημάτων που θυμίζουν τα έπιπλα από το 1980 με έδρα το Μιλάνο – κίνημα του σχεδιασμού από τον σχεδιαστή Ettore Sottsass.
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source: culturacolectiva
En el diseño y la moda todo se vale, argumenta la diseñadora Valeska Jasso Collado. Esta universitaria decidió retomar el diseño mobiliario estilo Memphis de la década de los 80, creado por Ettore Sottsass, para crear prendas de alta costura.

Para la creación de las prendas, Valeska utiliza materiales bastante inusuales: una combinación de espuma y látex con la que logra proyectar siluetas estructurales y geométricas. Estos materiales resultan un soporte rígido con el que brinda mayor estabilidad a la silueta de sus modelos.

Después de meses de investigación, eligió el látex en varios colores como el material que se integra con la espuma. Las diferentes secciones de la colección fueron plegadas, plisadas y se cortaron para revelar las capas de color. Las prendas más grandes crean una serie de siluetas geométricas más notorias. Algunas piezas fueron afiladas y rayadas con líneas de látex en colores que contrastaran.

La espuma multicolor fue adaptada a las prendas con tornillos de acero y argollas cromadas. Los colores y texturas brillantes lisas fueron influencia del trabajo del artista de la cerámica Ben Feiss. Valeska argumenta que aunque la colección es un trabajo académico y experimental, no es de uso diario, por supuesto; sin embargo, podría adaptarse a diferentes técnicas de fabricación para hacer una colección de uso común.

“Me tomó meses de investigación y muestreo seleccionar el material adecuado para combinarlo con la espuma y evitar que éste se rompiera. La mayoría de los materiales hicieron una buena combinación, y el proceso de confección no fue tan complicado como lo imaginaba”.

La colección ha sido muy bien recibida, incluso, alcanzó popularidad en las redes sociales. El proyecto de Valeska guarda potencial dentro de la moda experimental para la creación de productos. Aunque la colección permanece en el sitio de un proyecto académico, la diseñadora va en camino de ocupar un lugar en la industria de la moda.
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source: cipatexmodablogspot

A moda extremamente conceitual de Valeska Jasso Collado vem chamando a atenção por aí. A sua mais nova coleção inspira-se em ícones da decoração de interiores, em um a união perfeita entre os dois assuntos em todos os looks.

As formas exageradas trazem a tona os móveis do estilo Memphis, movimento liderado por Sottsass na década de 80. Os tons vibrantes ficam por conta do estuda da moça sobre as cerâmicas de Ben Feiss. Nos materiais, a escolha fica no látex e na espuma.

Valeska ainda pretende explorar mais este universo, sempre com uma pincelada cheia de criatividade e talento.
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source: voltcafe

Fashion designer Valeska Jasso Collado, a recent graduate from Westminster University, used unusual combinations of metal, latex and foam to create her final collection of adventurous garments inspired by the 1980’s Memphis style furniture.
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source: deezen

Fashion designer Valeska Jasso Collado combined metal, foam and latex to create Memphis-influenced garments for her University of Westminster graduate collection.

Valeska Jasso Collado chose an unusual combination of materials to create bold shapes reminiscent of furniture from the 1980s Milan-based design movement lead by designer Ettore Sottsass.

“My shapes are inspired by Memphis style furniture and interior,” Jasso Collado told Dezeen. “I love the geometric forms.”

Using sheets of foam as the base material, Jasso Collado stuck on layers of latex in different colours.

“I chose foam because it would make the voluminous but clean shapes I had in mind possible,” she said. “It also meant I didn’t have to build any kind of frame or stuffing which are more common methods to create volume for garments.”

“It took me months of sampling to figure out what material to combine the foam with and how to keep it together to prevent it from ripping for example,” Jasso Collado explained. “Most materials wouldn’t stay on or would change the way it shaped.”

Large sections of fabric were folded, pleated and sliced to reveal the layers of colour. The resulting oversized garments create a range of geometric silhouettes.

One top formed from a circular section of speckled material curved up to cover the lower half of the face, with holes for arms to slot through the front.

Elements such as chunky pieces of flecked multicoloured foam were pinned to the garments with steel screws and chrome washers.

Some pieces were edged and streaked with lines of latex in contrasting colours.

The bright colours and smooth glossy textures were influence by the work of ceramic artist Ben Feiss.

“Compared to the rest of the collections from my university this year I think the cleanness and focus on a variety of silhouettes within the collection makes it stand out,” said Jasso Collado.

Jasso Collado admitted that the garments aren’t particularly wearable in their current state, but hopes to adapt the fabrication techniques for accessories.

“I don’t think latex and foam are the most comfortable materials to wear unless it is a rainy winter day,” she said.

“I will carry on with fabrication sampling and change some of the shapes too. I’d also like to make some big bags. I’m really looking forward to that.”

We’ve noticed a recent resurgence of the Memphis style in both fashion and industrial design, most prominently in Milan earlier this year.

Elsewhere, American Apparel launched a collection that includes patterns by Memphis group member Nathalie du Pasquier, while a collection of prints influenced by colours and motifs from Memphis design was shown during New York design week.
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source: fastcodesign

Chic clown suits? Futuristic X-ray bibs? David Byrne’s Big Suit gone candy-colored? This collection of awesomely impractical garments by Valeska Jasso Collado, a fashion design student at the University of Westminster in London, was assembled over several months from chunks of foam, brightly colored latex, and metal. By pleating, folding, and layering these unlikely materials, Collado alters the human silhouette into bizarre shapes inspired by the Memphis Group.

At the moment, the pieces are more wearable sculpture than clothing—try sitting down in that gigantic hoop skirt/shiny life-preserver getup—but Collado plans to streamline her absurdist aesthetic into a line of accessories, including oversized bags. Similar to the way futuristic but impossible concept cars often influence the design of more drivable ones, avant-garde fashion tends to trickle down into mainstream style over time.

The collection’s bold graphic style and geometric shapes nod to the resurgence of Memphis Group-inspired design. Spearheaded by Ettore Sottsass in Milan in 1981, the Memphis Group’s postmodern style was characterized by asymmetrical shapes, plastic laminate, and eye-popping colors. Designers like Alessandro Mendini, Michael Graves, George Sowden and Nathalie Du Pasquier played with the idea that form didn’t necessarily have to follow function. Pop art, art deco, Bauhaus, and futuristic-kitsch influences converged in interior and furniture design that was loved by some critics, loathed by many. (The Memphis Group were never Tennessee-based, as their name might suggest—they took their label from Bob Dylan’s “Stuck Inside of Mobile with the Memphis Blues Again,” a song on heavy rotation during their initial meetings.)

Thirty-three years later, their playful, eye-popping aesthetic is rearing its head again in designs seen at the Salone de Mobile in Milan. Collado isn’t the first fashion designer of late to draw on this ’80s scene’s love of futuristic-kitsch. Christian Dior’s 2011-12 haute couture collection translated individual pieces by Memphis designers into clothing, and American Apparel even tapped Du Pasquier for a line with colorful patterns. So if you want to get in on the trend before everyone else does, maybe start carving your foam mattress pad into a jacket, or fashioning your yellow slicker into a dress. All the cool kids are doing it!