Oracle Collection
The performance centered around ORACLE, a digital palm reading given by model and iconic muse Axelle Doué. The surrounding luminous dresses embodying the four elements— air, earth, water, and fire—come alive during the reading, with mirrors reflecting them into infinity. The pieces are crafted from diverse materials, both natural and synthetic. Well beyond typical textiles, Clara Daguin implements optical fibers, pleating, embroidered circuits, addressable LEDs, sculpted resin, home-grown alum stone crystals, Swarovski Elements, silk organza, microcontrollers and radio frequency modules.

Apollo
Victor Pasmore’s ‘Apollo’ Pavilion sits at the heart of the Sunny Blunts estate in Peterlee[…] Four large orange forms intersect the pavilion at right angles to the main orientation and appear to slice through the pavilion. The blocks are drawn from the geometry of the pavilion and a nod to the remote object planes of Victor Pasmore’s work. The inflatable textiles blocks create a juxtaposition between the angular grey concrete of the pavilion and the soft, rounded, colourful forms of the installation. The intervention is deliberately bold with a strong visual aesthetic to temporarily transform the pavilion. The piece is also, on the surface, playful, tactile and accessible – encouraging the audience to look at the pavilion with fresh eyes.

Memoria frammentata
Phillip Stearns utilizza in modo creativo tutte le forme di elettronica nel suo lavoro, spesso mescolando luce e suono con tecniche tradizionali come la tessitura. Un aspetto del suo lavoro è la trasformazione della glitch art in disegni intrecciati attraverso il suo marchio tessile concettuale Glitch Textiles, fondato nel 2011. Questo spazia dalla visualizzazione di dati binari grezzi delle applicazioni alla scrittura di algoritmi personalizzati per generare modelli che possono essere trasformati in tattili e funzionali opere d’arte. Un’altra impresa è il trittico Fragmented Memory di grandi arazzi tessuti completato nel maggio 2013 al TextielMuseum di Tilburg, nei Paesi Bassi. Questo progetto ha utilizzato pratiche e processi digitali per sfumare i confini tra fotografia, visualizzazione dei dati, design tessile e informatica.

Sur les ambiguïtés textiles d’encadrement
L’installation On Framing Textile Ambiguities est le résultat d’une enquête critique sur les évolutions sociales et techniques qui ont conduit à la situation technologique locale actuelle. Comme une série de machines, l’installation se présente comme un groupe. Ils partagent le même fil et sont fabriqués à partir des mêmes composants. Chaque machine est construite autour d’un châssis, à travers lequel le fil est en cours d’exécution. Bien qu’ils trouvent différentes significations dans le codage en raison des différences dans les largeurs des images.

Skin Sucka

A project conceived with Clive van Heerden, Jack Mama (Philips Design Probes) and Bart Hess, Skinsucka explores a vision of our nano technology future whereby bio technology and robotics come together to question our attitudes of a synthetic future. Skinsucka reveals a future where microbal robots live in our shared spaces and autonomously they will undertake menial tasks such as cleaning our homes by eating the dirt. ‘Skinsuckas’ clean the skin, removing the vestiges of make up and providing the remedies to combat the excesses of the night before They swarm over the body extruding metabolized household dirt, dressing the body in a daily ritual of real time, customized manufacture – yesterday’s discarded clothing ready for recycling.” Clive and Jack’s work has consistently brought very diverse skills together in new innovation processes. In the late 1990’s they took designers and other creative skills into Philips Research labs in the Redhill, London and New York and created a specialist studio in London to develop the skills, materials and technologies for a host of Wearable Electronic business propositions in the areas of electronic apparel, conductive textiles, physical gaming, medical monitoring and entertainment.

Topographie digitale
“Topographie Digitale” is an interactive installation created by DataPaulette. This landscape uses electrically functionalized and pleated textiles as sensitive surfaces reacting to touch. This interaction brings to life a “digital clone”, video-projected. This mirrored scene reveals an organic side contrasting with the mineral aspect of the physical scene.

On Framing Textile Ambiguities
The installation On Framing Textile Ambiguities is the output of a critical investigation on social and technical developments that led to the current local technological situation. As a series of machines, the installation presents itself as a group. They share the same thread and are made from the same components. Each machine is build around a frame, through which the thread is running. Though they are finding various meanings in the encoding due to differences in the widths of the frames.

KVADRAT Exploration
R&D for Danish textile company Kvadrat that predominantly revolves around the idea of coating fragments of furniture with fabric rather than falling back on the more commonly seen real world simulation of fabrics. Employing a fluid, almost water-like approach to motion we see abstract furniture fragments emerging from the fabric; its amorphous forms continually re-configuring itself for a graphic, textural delight.

geist.xyz
A synthetic ghost shifts simulated textiles from passive matter to live organisms. They behave like apparitions in an artificial choreography, with movements that are imaginary yet familiar. Like a constant metamorphosis, the same sequence gets transformed over and over again. At each step, all aspects of the designs are modified, from algorithmic pattern to color scheme to fabric behaviour. The results are meandering layers of style changes. A linear montage shows the intricate details. Shuffled layers of metronomic sounds emphasize the transformation fluctuating in and out of sync.

beGrounded
beGrounded is a project that explores the relationship between humans and other living organisms, as an emotional and artistic act through textiles. It proposes an exploration of a new habitable space in the form of a woven garment with growing sprouts, as a sensorial and interactive experience.

The Unseen Collection
Lauren Bowker describes herself a materials alchemist. After developing a pollution sensing compound while studying at Manchester School of Art, she went on to study textiles at the Royal College of Art in London and created a series of inks which change colour in response to heat, light, wind and environmental changes.

Opulent Virulence
“My collection is inspired by my fascination with nature; an interpretation of the complexity and unrestrained beauty of nature, which I express through complex layering, colour and a maximalist aesthetic that takes joy in abundance and opulence. I create my own ecosystems of layered and built fabrics in knit, print and unconventional embroidery. My clothes are in a state of rewilding – I infect the silhouettes with rich colourful textiles, giving them life. I grow my embroideries over graphic and sculptural silhouettes to emphasise and contrast the organic and the built landscape.” Rosie Danford Phillips

Reflected Roof
A series of fans gently shape the textile into a sequence of changing forms that although programmed will never exactly repeat. The daylight, cast from above, falls onto and through the fabric and as it’s angle changes throughout the day creates ever changes in colour, shadow and reflection.

Contours
London-based creative laboratory Bare Conductive was invited to team up with designers Fabio Antinori and Alicja Pytlewska in order to develop a large-scale metaphor for the idea of breathing life into a collection of responsive textile skins. ‘Contours’ is at the core of the interactive tapestry installation; a series capacitive sensors are applied to the suspended fabric substrates using conductive paint. These sensors react to the presence of a person within the vicinity and track their movements, outputting a constantly modulated ambient soundscape reminiscent of medical research environments. The abstract geometric ornamentation connects the tapestries’ individual sensors to form giant panels, serving as an acoustic feedback loop that alludes to the relationship between science and the body.

Liquid MIDI
An experimental modular textile interface for sonic interactions, exploring aesthetics and morphology on contemporary interaction design. Trigger  pads and fader board are screen printed modules focused on AV performances, allowing the performer to build its set up regarding its needs.

菲力浦 畢斯雷

Hylozoic Ground

The project’s title refers to ‘hylozoism’, the ancient belief that all matter has life. Hylozoic Ground offers a vision for a new generation of responsive architecture. The Hylozoic Ground environment can be described as a suspended geotextile that gradually accumulates hybrid soil from ingredients drawn from its surroundings. Akin to the functions of a living system, embedded machine intelligence allows human interaction to trigger breathing, caressing, and swallowing motions and hybrid metabolic exchanges. These empathic motions ripple out from hives of kinetic valves and pores in peristaltic waves, creating a diffuse pumping that pulls air, moisture and stray organic matter through the filtering Hylozoic membranes.

All above
Guda Koster is a Dutch artist who creates living sculptures and performances, which the photographs are the results of. Koster’s works are created in parallels of time, space and textile. In her works Koster uses fabrics, colours and patterns that underline the codes and meanings our clothing conveys.

A Perfect Body
Guda Koster modifica la figura humana ocultando su identidad con la ayuda de piezas textiles que ella misma diseña y confecciona. No tenemos claro si sus personajes están vivos o no. Los modelos podrían ser maniquís y los maniquís personas. Ella los llama esculturas y los incluye en instalaciones, performances y acciones callejeras o los documenta fotográficamente. De sus imágenes se intuye que la prenda no es el fin, ni tampoco el hombre-maniquí. La rareza que proyectan sus obras las convierte en un vehículo para hablar de un tercer elemento: una historia, un acontecimiento, real o inventado, impuesto por la autora o gestado en la mente de un espectador extrañado.

Spring/Summer 1997
Kawakubo never studied fashion. Instead she started out by getting a job in a textile factory, where she began styling. After struggling to find the clothes she wanted, she started designing her own, and eventually set up her company.

android apparatus
Hillary Predko: Design + Textiles + Fabrication
Lindy Wilkins: Design + Code / electronics
Vanita Butrsingkorn: Performer @ Design Exchange, photos
Coco Freddie: Model @ Electro Threads
Miranda Tempest: Performer @ Android TO
My initial artwork didn’t feel like wearables as we conceptualize them now, but slowly my work morphed into artistic concoctions of cybernetic beings. I have an undergrad in computation arts, and a masters in digital media, so that definitely laid the groundwork for my explorations in this field.

Роуэн Мерш
The essence of Rowan Mersh’s work lies primarily within the complete understanding of a fabric or material. From understanding a textile’s inherent characteristics, from their structure and the way they are knitted, woven or formed, to the yarns used in their construction, an intuitive sense is able to develop. It is this affinity with the cloth that informs possible capabilities and potential for manipulation, and subsequently all his creations.

АСТРИД КРОГ
Ikat I
Fascinated by the interplay of textiles and light, Denmark-based artist Astrid Krogh explores the dialogue between natural and artificial illumination when paired with fibers. While studying at the Danish Design School, Krogh explored her interest in textiles, which shines through in the craftsmanship, patterns, and ornamentation of her work. Inspired by cycles of life in nature, many of Krogh’s neon.

compositie met oranje cirkel
Guda Koster is a Dutch artist who creates living sculptures and performances, which the photographs are the results of. Koster’s works are created in parallels of time, space and textile.In her works Koster uses fabrics, colours and patterns that underline the codes and meanings our clothing conveys.

London Woman SS 2020
London born designer Richard Quinn established his eponymous label in 2016, upon graduating the Fashion MA at Central Saint Martins. Specialising in womenswear and textiles, his collections are bold and emotive creating a forward thinking unafraid vision. Richard creates garments with attention to innovative fabrications, focusing on his ability to combine unique handcrafted skill, with a refined high fashion sensibility.

London born designer Richard Quinn established his eponymous label in 2016, upon graduating the Fashion MA at Central Saint Martins. Specialising in womenswear and textiles, his collections are bold and emotive creating a forward thinking unafraid vision. Richard creates garments with attention to innovative fabrications, focusing on his ability to combine unique handcrafted skill, with a refined high fashion sensibility.

timeLandscape woolrhythms

“timeLandscape – wool rhythms” 2010. Part of timeLandscape series, 2009 – 2010. Video, audio, projector, speakers, custom patch (PD-Gem), sensor, wool engine. Variable dimensions and duration, loop. “timeLandscape – woolrhythms” is an interactive audiovisual installation in which a landscape is depicted from its multiple time possibilities and [re]composed through users’ real time interaction. The installation was developed in Biella, Italy, an area economically attached to textile industry, and deals with the cyclical perception of time and human, linear, interference on it. It gathers nature and artefact, by connecting a physical wool engine to digital imagery of daily cycles. By turning the wheel crank, users generate movement starting the engine. Through a sensor attached to the machine, software calculates the rotation speed, altering parameters for mixing audio and video fragments in real time. Every turn of the machine leads to different time thread combinations in response to the rhythm and speed of each interactor.

FILE FESTIVAL

Mylène Boisvert was born in Drummondville, Quebec in 1971. She lives and works in Montreal where she completed training in Visual Arts at Concordia University and in Textile Design at the Centre design et impression textile (CDIT). She has several years of experience as a textile designer for the knitting industry and as a teacher at the CDIT. Her works were shown in several solo and group exhibitions in Quebec, Ontario, Buenos Aires, Paris and Tournai. A two-time bursary recipient from the Conseil des arts et des lettres du Québec, she was also awarded numerous prizes and she earned an honourable mention at Fibreworks 2014, a biennial Canadian fibre work juried exhibition.

Stormy weather
Guda Koster is a Dutch artist who creates living sculptures and performances, which the photographs are the results of. Koster’s works are created in parallels of time, space, and textile. In her works, Koster uses fabrics, colors, and patterns that underline the codes and meanings our clothing conveys.

Graduate of the Danish school of design and the Central Saint Martins College of Fashion and Textile in 2000, Isabel Berglund, having already exhibited around the world, is now one of the creative artists who makes use of knitting in contemporary art. Using knitted wool to create sculptures, she creates archaic memories with the mesh, sometimes incorporating clothing fragments so you can curl up in the sculptures and experience the inside. An experimental space where human and material boundaries merge in a knitted web of emotion, her work puts the poetic insight of a child at our fingertips.

Inlaid Skin
Studio Andreea Mandrescu Ltd. is a design company specialising in textile, material and surface design with various applications. The textile collections are an exploration of different materials that include faux fur, rubbers, leather and veneers on a variety of base fabrics. The fabrics are versatile, made to fit pattern garments for fashion design to being wrapped around the body as accessories.

Turning Point
Isabel Nolan’s artwork utilizes textiles, steel rods, and primary colored paint to approach questions of anxiety, current events, and the human condition. Her work has a particularly erudite quality, with materials teased and propped to mimic symbolism and images in literature, historical texts, science, and art. Nolan’s work has been exhibited throughout her native Ireland and wider Europe, including at the Irish Museum of Modern Art and the Musée d’art modern de Saint Etienne. With her first solo exhibition in the United States fast approaching, artnet News caught up with the scholarly artist to hear about her early diagrams of brains and ideas she is currently entertaining for her next body of work.

Fall in Pop
‘Fall in pop’ by mint design is a large organic work composed of 3D screens made from a fabric that has been coated with a glossy finish called glass organdie (made from polyester), in which motifs are projected, filling the space with light and color. The central focus is a sculptural, draping form which extends from above one’s head, down to the floor, meant to give the feeling of waterfalls which bring moisture to forests, as images trickle down the textile, creating a sensory visual space.

Matija Čop is a first-year graduate student of Fashion Design at the Faculty of Textile Design of the University in Zagreb. Before enrolling he studied Croatian Philology at the Faculty of Philosophy. With his mentor Jasminka Končić he is working on understanding fashion. In his work he speaks the language of fashion with a strong conceptual and multidisciplinary background. As he is still a student, his work up to now is occupied by the fashion object as the starting form of studying fashion garments.

フセイン·チャラヤン
ЧАЛАЯН
후세인 샬 라얀
Hussein Chalayan wurde in Zypern geboren und schloss 1993 an der Londoner Central St. Martins School of Art and Design ab. Bereits 1994 gründete er sein eigenes Mode­label und in den Jahren 1999 und 2000 wurde er zum British Designer of the Year ernannt. Seit 2002 zeigt er seine Kollektionen in Paris und 2008 wurde er zum Creative Director von Puma berufen. Chalayans Kreationen zeichnen sich durch innovatives Design, wunderschöne Schnitte und ein puristische Ästhetik aus. Museen auf der ganze Welt widmen ihm Ausstellungen, unter anderem das Museum of Modern Art, New York, das Musée de la Mode et du Textile, Palais du Louvre, Paris oder das Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo. Neben seinem Modedesign macht Hussein Chalayan Filme und ist in Theater- und Tanzproduktionen involviert.

A student from Danish Design School, Ellinor Ericsson has designed a chair called TubeMe which was exhibited on the Stockholm Furniture Fair 2011. In designer’s words, “The TubeMe chair is about a tactile interaction with a chair. You are able to braid the naked chair with pillow tubes creating your own upholster with the different textiles. While actually sitting in the chair you can interact with it by using the tubes or just throw them around you and fall asleep being embraced.”

She’s my country

The Indian born, New York City based artist Rina Banerjee has a love of materials, heritage textiles, ethnicity and fashion, colonial objects and furnishings, historical architecture, and their ability to disguise, animate, locate their inherent meanings in her art work. While sculptures and drawings, paintings use a fusion of cultures and unravel our connected experiences an explosion of differences alternate the way we receive our identity. Banerjee says her work explores “specific colonial moments that reinvent place and identity as complex diasporic experiences intertwined and sometimes surreal.”

Water Cathedral
Supported by a minimal external steel framework, the inverted cones are suspended from a wire grid to capture rainwater within a plastic bag. Dripping at different pulses and speeds, water drops exit the textile covering to generate a cool atmosphere for visitors beneath the canopy. Stalagmites formed with concrete blocks double as benches, strategically placing individuals below the streams of water.

茜森山
森山茜
cubic prism
Gently responding to wind movements and rain drops, ‘cubic prism’ by stockholm-based designer akane moriyama is a large cube-based structure made out of three different colors of textiles. suspended between two buildings at the goldsmith hall in the university of texas, austin, the piece reacts to environmental factors, as the geometry of a rigid cube is replaced with soft semi-transparent fabrics.

canapé couette
French design duo caroline ziegler + pierre brichet of brichetziegler have created ‘canapé couette’, a sofa wrapped in a single piece of fabric. The wood and resin structure is enveloped by a quilted cotton duvet. The strategically placed folds add the form of arms and a headrest. Colorful stitching creates an unexpected rhythm chart, emphasizing the direction in which the textile was folded.

Marc Swanson (American, b.1969) works in diverse media, including sculpture, drawing, collage, photography, video, and installation. The artist employs a refined range of materials, relying on a concentrated vocabulary of wood, glass, textile, naturally-shed animal antlers, and precious metals. He often juxtaposes “high” and “low” materials in the same work: rhinestones, gold and silver chain, and black mirrored panels meet lumberyard two-by-fours and white cotton t-shirts coated in latex.

林天苗
Endless door
LIAN TIANMIAO lives and works out of Beijing creating predominantly installation pieces. She has made a career transforming silk, threads and textiles into elaborate works of art and also for her experimentation with photography and video. Her art has a textural and tactile nature that plays on the senses.

アン·ハミルトン
앤 해밀턴
habitus
Ann Hamilton began habitus by exploring Philadelphia’s textile collections and visiting some of its generations-old textile producers. Seeing looms that have been in operation for decades and watching raw material become a single thread, then a warp, and then a weft of a cloth: these experiences inspired the making of habitus. The artist says, “Just as cloth is a structure binding individual threads into a larger whole, this project is designed to encourage associative links between texts and textiles and their individual forms of knowledge and experience.”

Wearable Sculpture
He designs with meticulous attention to detail and longing for newness. Leather and wool are still his favourite materials. To get the effect of surprise he juxtaposes these two traditional materials with others, perhaps not typically associated with the textile industry. An important part of his design process is treating natural and synthetic fabrics with various methods, using heat, chemicals or other techniques, thus combining innovation and tradition.

Wearable Structure: Yellow Pod
Tracy Featherstone is an Associate Professor of Art at Miami University. A SFA Scholarship and Teaching grand allowed Featherstone to travel to Ghana, West Africa in order to initiate a body of sculptural work dealing with the theme of personal environment. The language of home such as furniture, textiles, and construction is used to express the awkward, fragile, and tenuous hold on stability and structure in her work. The sculptures, wearable or free-standing, are frenzied attempts to create order from an ultimately unpredictable surrounding.

Таттл, Ричард
理查德·塔特尔
리처드 터틀
ריצ’רד טאטל
リチャード・タトル
I Don’t Know
Richard Tuttle emploie magistralement différents matériaux pour élaborer un lexique personnel où le carton, le métal, le bois, le papier ou le textile deviennent comme les mots d’un poème ou les notes d’une partition. Ses sculptures se caractérisent également par l’absence de référence ou d’interprétation. “Faire une chose qui ne ressemble qu’à elle même, c’est là le problème, c’est là la solution. Faire quelque chose qui soit son propre dénouement, sa propre justification, cela ressemble au rêve. Il n’y a là aucun paradoxe, car ceci n’est qu’un adieu au réel. Nous n’avons pas d’esprit, nous n’avons que son rêve d’existence, un rêve de substance quand il y en a une”.

The Textile Room

Los Angeles-based P-A-T-T-E-R-N-S is among the most intriguing and progressive firms working in architecture today. They seem relentless in pushing boundaries in areas like ultra-light-weight high-tech materials and immersive media. They are also very thoughtful and patient in the way they approach design.This is good because what they are engaged in and the way they work takes time. By collaborating with engineers and innovators in different industries they are slowly changing the way architecture is carried out and conceived on material and ontological levels. They don’t do spec homes, they do what’s new, and sometimes try to do what hasn’t been done yet.

فيليب ستيرنز
glitch textiles

ايسي مياكي
איסי מיקים
イッセイミヤケ
이세이 미야케
Dai Fujiwara
A-POC Queen Textile

Астрид Крог
light tapestry
“En tant que pionnière dans le domaine d’un nouveau genre de tapisseries infusée de lumière, l’impact du travail d’Astrid Krogh sur les arts, l’architecture et le design est considérable. Alors que jusque là les tapisseries étaient considérées comme de simples ajouts décoratifs à nos intérieurs, Krogh a montré comment la technologie textile pouvait en faire des éléments architecturaux. En intégrant le textile dans l’architecture, Krogh a ouvert la voie à des formes fluides et au design qui favorisent les relations dynamqiues entre le spectateur et l’objet. Par le passé la relation tactile à l’objet textile ne passait que par le sens du toucher, dans le travail de Krogh cette relation est mesurée par l’œil et ressenti de tous nos sens.» Bradley Quinn

Water Cathedral

Le pavillon est une initiative horizontale composée de suspension d’éléments verticaux à différentes hauteurs et densités, naturellement afin de sculpter des espaces par des composantes pyramidales qui sont en tissu et en béton pour imiter les stalactites et stalagmites trouvés dans les grottes.
Soutenus par un cadre en acier extérieur minimal, les cônes inversés sont suspendues à partir d’une grille métallique pour capturer l’eau de pluie dans un sac en plastique. Coulant goutte à goutte, avec des impulsions et des vitesses différentes, les gouttes d’eau sortent du revêtement textile pour générer une atmosphère fraîche pour les visiteurs sous la canopée. Les stalagmites formées de blocs de bétondoubles bancs, les personnes plaçant stratégiquement sous les jets d’eau.
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